Around the Globe: The Steenberg Hotel
There is a place several thousand miles to the south and
east of the United States, across the Atlantic Ocean, that every serious
traveler and wine aficionado should visit at least once during their life.
Generally, the place is called the Constantia
Valley, striking winelands flowing into craggy mountains just 20 minutes
outside of Cape Town.
Specifically, the
place is Steenberg, the Cape’s oldest farm and one of the best accommodations
at which I’ve ever stayed.
“Old” here means something fundamentally different than what
most Americans consider old. Steenberg
Hotel’s buildings date back to 1682 (don’t worry, they’ve been extravagantly
updated), as does the spacious winery.
Fathom that – the early settlers were growing grapes and making wine at
the Steenberg nearly 100 years before America declared its independence.
The Steenberg is a pleasure land in so many ways. Start with the Khoi Khoi Suite that we
stayed in.
Named in honor of a traditional local tribe, the Khoi Khoi Suite
is more cottage than suite, as it is as large as many comfortable houses.
Adorned with traditional African art and
stocked with fresh coffee and other South African goodies, it opens into a
spacious backyard abutting gorgeous vineyards, and it is filled with pungent fresh
herbs and a private swimming pool.
Toasting the sunset behind the
mountains in the backyard with a glass of Steenberg’s
signature Graham Beck Brut NV – which was served at both Nelson Mandela’s and
President Obama’s respective inaugurations – enlivens all of the senses.
Perhaps equally tantalizing is all of the food
offered on the spacious Steenberg grounds. Gorgeous Bar offers the perfect
excuse to break into a bottle of world-renowned sauvignon blanc, which benefits
from the mineral soil and relatively cool climate here.
Bistro
Sixteen82 opens onto sleek manmade ponds and stunning natural beauty and, under
the leadership of well known bistro-specialist Chef Brad Ball, offers
smart takes and modern twists on classics and throws in a robust raw bar for
good measure. And Restaurant Catharina offers fine dining, a modern wine bar, a terrace that overlooks
rolling lawns and vineyards, and an open fireplace. It also offers an interesting story, as
Catharina was an early and beloved proprietor of the Steenberg, but suffered
numerous odd and tragic deaths of her numerous husbands – including one being
eaten by a lion. Stories of lions
roaming the land are about the only thing that can shock one out of a Steenberg
bubbly-induced stupor and serve as a reminder that while Constantia is not the
bush, this is Africa, and every living moment is worth savoring.
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