Monday, April 16, 2012

Oklahoma Eats: The Coach House

By:  Anna Hicks

Last week, I found myself afflicted with a strange and sudden craving for foie gras. Maybe it was my foggy memory of the last foie gras dish I’ve eaten – well over four years ago at this point – or perhaps this craving stemmed from the interest I’ve had in French cuisine ever since watching Amelie. Whatever the reason, I decided to peruse restaurant menus on with one goal in mind: find the best foie gras in Oklahoma City.

Not surprisingly, the search results directed me to The Coach House, which may not be a French restaurant but is still one the premier destinations in town. Only a couple days after conducting that search I found myself driving up Western Avenue, headed towards Chef Kurt Fleischfresser’s signature local establishment.

I hadn’t been to The Coach House in years, and my memory told me that my experience there was quite a delicious one. But in the time since that visit I’ve heard repeatedly from friends that The Coach House is incredibly expensive and overpriced; it’s good, but it’s not worth the cost.

I found The Coach House to be expensive, no question about it, but no more so than any other high-end dining option in the city. And as long as I’m on the subject of price I’ll throw out my two other criticisms of the place: the restaurant is on the small side and can get noisy at times, and the service does not quite compare with what one would expect from an elegant dining experience.

You’ll notice that my brief criticisms make no mention of the food. This is because The Coach House’s seasonal offerings are predictably fantastic. For my meal I had the rack of lamb with ancho-cherry sauce. My husband got the mouth-watering beef fillet grilled with wine-smoked onion butter. And, of course, we both split the foie gras appetizer as a starter.

All three plates were delicious, well-presented, and perfectly seasoned. When eaten in the comfortable ambiance of a classy and classic establishment (think white table cloths, dimmed lighting, and comfortable chairs), there was no question in my mind that this place is one of Oklahoma City’s very best. It may be expensive and unaffordable on a regular basis, but The Coach House should certainly make your short-list if you’re looking to celebrate a birthday, anniversary, or other special occasion.

But it’s also great on a whim, simply when you get a craving and want some foie gras.

This story was provided by Anna Hicks (a freelance writer).

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